Today is not a holiday. Today is an entirely average Monday (sorry, Monday. I still like hanging out with you). Nobody told me that today was any different than any other Monday, yet when I arrived at work I noticed that the building was almost entirely empty. I chalked that up to heavy Sunday night partying on the part of my coworkers. When 11 rolled around and no one had showed up, I started to get suspicious. This was either a very elaborate and well-orchestrated practical joke on new guy Andrew, or I didn't get the memo that Tuesday happens to be a holiday (Pope Day, maybe they make Pope cakes!) and most people take Monday off as well. The language barrier strikes again! I stayed until lunch time and worked on some translation, but I am definitely not making the same mistake tomorrow. I am taking a very deserved Pope Day away from the office.
You might be asking yourself why I stayed at work instead of just going back to the Casona. Is anyone asking themselves that question? No? Well, bear with me while I ask the question no one particularly wants the answer to. The reason I stayed until lunch was that I wanted to eat at the restaurant in the lady's house. I believe I mentioned that in a previous entry, but if not, a lady has a house. She serves lunch in her house (and of course hides the kids), and it essentially becomes a restaurant from 11-4. Once the clock strikes four it's a house again. I really enjoyed my first meal there, and it's absurdly cheap, so I decided this would be my Pope Day Eve lunch spot. Eating in a person's house (with about 8 other customers, mind you) is very entertaining. First of all, it's very homey. The atmosphere, the food, the mom that treats you like her kids...all of these factors make you feel at home. Which you are. Just not yours. Also, because this is a living and breathing home, some domestic occurrences can't be prevented during restaurant hours. For instance, I chortled when I heard her neighbor ring the doorbell or when I saw the family dog escape and run through the dining areas. It certainly was not a difficult decision to choose to come back. I ordered the chicken soup (rather than the salad. Appetizer salads here don't blow me away, and it was cold today), followed with pork milanesa with garbanzo bean stew and rice, pear juice, and a comped free salad (which DID blow me away because it was free). Everything was homey and comforting, and I was touched that she didn't skimp on the chicken liver or chicken feet in my soup. Granted, I am a fan of neither liver nor feet. Feet are OK but the knuckles require more mandible dexterity than I possess. Either way, I felt like a special guest over to see the kids do a piano recital. She told me that she's putting together a special lomo saltado on Wednesday. I said "See you there!" She didn't understand. I then realized I shouldn't have been speaking English, particularly in a conversation where everything else I had said was in Spanish. Upon translation, she gave me the fist pound (recognizing my glaring American-ness) and we sealed the deal. On my way out, she was nice enough to offer me a ride to Ricky's house to play some N64. I politely declined, but again, it was really the thought that counted.
Monday, June 28, 2010
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Two Weeks Down
I just hit the two week mark, and although that really isn't all that much time I feel as if I have been here a couple months. I usually get that feeling when I travel, and I'm not technically traveling out of Lima but I'm still experiencing a great variety of new things. Let's do a brief recap of the past week so everyone can get a feel for how I'm spending my time.
Thursday afternoon, a group of farmers and ranchers from Pachamac (I don't know where it is, apologies to the cartography enthusiasts) came to the GEA office to give a presentation of the organic/natural/sustainable products they are cultivating in the region. Apparently, a TV show was at the office to film the people with their produce and animals. This was an occasion when the language barrier definitely confused me. I can understand why there would be a TV segment about the Pachamac farmers and ranchers, but I really don't get why the backyard of the office was the chosen venue to discuss potato varieties and llama husbandry. Sometimes it's better not to ask questions and just pet the llama. Words to live by, those.
Twice this week my coworkers decided they wanted the menu at La Clínica Maison de Santé. To clarify, this place is a hospital. Maybe I'm old fashioned, but it seems a bit off to want to have lunch at the hospital cafe when there are numerous other options nearby. Besides being surrounded by doctors, patients' families, and the occasional ambulance, it was quite a normal lunch. And who is going to complain about 6 soles (~$2.15) for chicken soup, pork tenderloin with rice and lentils, and a fruit cocktail? Not this guy.
Friday night, Kike and Juan (the French guys that run the Casona), Jessica (an American who went to UCLA and is here for two weeks), and some of Kike and Juan's Lima friends (some French folks, a couple Limans, and one Belgium), and I went out to a really small bar....hold on one second.
"Unchained Melody" by the Isley Brothers is on right now. I gotta sing along. Back in a minute.
I think we can all agree that "Ghost" wouldn't be "Ghost" without that song. Anyways, we went to this bar where a group of about 10 guys were playing some variety of Latin music. Two trumpets, two saxophones, a trombone, a bass, a guitar, a drummer, and a guy dancing around who didn't really seem to be playing anything. The venue was fun because the band didn't have a true stage; instead, a space was cleared for them on the first floor. Because only 25 people or so could watch and dance downstairs, the rest of us were on the second level balcony. I'll post some pictures on Flickr, but it was neat to be able to watch the band from above. The less enjoyable aspect was the humid and smoke-filled air. Lima does not have any laws against smoking in bars, some restaurants, wig shops, etc. so it's been a smoky couple of weeks. I don't mind cigarette smoke that much except for the way it infiltrates your clothes. The non-smoking laws and larger size cups of coffee are several things that I definitely miss in the states.
Saturday night, before going out again, I went to Astrid y Gaston. It is supposed to be one of the best restaurants in Peru, and certainly one of the most upscale in Lima. The creator is Gaston Acurio, a celebrity chef who tries to raise the level of Peruvian cuisine and help it gain international attention. This is his flagship, and once I read that it has a 12 course tasting menu, I knew I had to go. The courses spanned all sorts of traditional Peruvian specialties (guinea pig, seafood, causa (potato puree thing), interesting root vegetables, lomo saltado, anticuchos) and the atmosphere, service, presentation, and taste was right up there with the best I've bad. Another bonus is that the cost is about 1/3 what you would expect in the US. I have also discovered that I enjoy Pisco, the national liquor of Peru. Most of you have probably had a Pisco Sour, but down here there are a whole mess of different Pisco drinks (and different types of Pisco). I'm glad the Pisco drinks are so good, because the beer...well it ain't a Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA if you catch my drift.
On Sunday I needed to procure a sweatshirt, an additional shirt for the gym, an additional shirt for work, and some sweatpants (turns out it's winter down here). I was referred to Polvos Azules, a mall of sorts in the center of Lima. The structure itself is like any mall in the US, and they sell items inside, but the similarities stop there. There are endless, categorized narrow aisles with minuscule stalls hawking their wares. I must have seen 75 stores selling shoes, 50 selling jeans, and I would venture to say 25 selling dog sweaters. It was overwhelming not only because of the volume of stores but also because you see the same products (or almost the same products) over and over and over again. I enjoy a good value, but I don't want to go to every stall, find the item I want, bargain, and then move on searching for the lowest price. I found a nice polo, an obnoxiously lime green t-shirt, a hoodie, and a pair of sweatpants and was out in 30 minutes. If you come to Lima, you can find great values for name brand stuff, but I don't plan to go back any time soon.
Tonight is shaping up to be pretty relaxed. As July rolls around more people are staying in the Casona, but fortunately Sunday is still low key. I am going to make dinner for Kike, Juan, and Jessica tonight. I love the familial feeling I get in the Casona (in addition to the immaculately clean bathrooms). For a nujack like myself, I couldn't ask for a better place to feel at home in Lima. Alright, I better wrap things up. "I Will Survive" just hit the airwaves, and I have been dying to show off the choreography I've been working on.
Thursday afternoon, a group of farmers and ranchers from Pachamac (I don't know where it is, apologies to the cartography enthusiasts) came to the GEA office to give a presentation of the organic/natural/sustainable products they are cultivating in the region. Apparently, a TV show was at the office to film the people with their produce and animals. This was an occasion when the language barrier definitely confused me. I can understand why there would be a TV segment about the Pachamac farmers and ranchers, but I really don't get why the backyard of the office was the chosen venue to discuss potato varieties and llama husbandry. Sometimes it's better not to ask questions and just pet the llama. Words to live by, those.
Twice this week my coworkers decided they wanted the menu at La Clínica Maison de Santé. To clarify, this place is a hospital. Maybe I'm old fashioned, but it seems a bit off to want to have lunch at the hospital cafe when there are numerous other options nearby. Besides being surrounded by doctors, patients' families, and the occasional ambulance, it was quite a normal lunch. And who is going to complain about 6 soles (~$2.15) for chicken soup, pork tenderloin with rice and lentils, and a fruit cocktail? Not this guy.
Friday night, Kike and Juan (the French guys that run the Casona), Jessica (an American who went to UCLA and is here for two weeks), and some of Kike and Juan's Lima friends (some French folks, a couple Limans, and one Belgium), and I went out to a really small bar....hold on one second.
"Unchained Melody" by the Isley Brothers is on right now. I gotta sing along. Back in a minute.
I think we can all agree that "Ghost" wouldn't be "Ghost" without that song. Anyways, we went to this bar where a group of about 10 guys were playing some variety of Latin music. Two trumpets, two saxophones, a trombone, a bass, a guitar, a drummer, and a guy dancing around who didn't really seem to be playing anything. The venue was fun because the band didn't have a true stage; instead, a space was cleared for them on the first floor. Because only 25 people or so could watch and dance downstairs, the rest of us were on the second level balcony. I'll post some pictures on Flickr, but it was neat to be able to watch the band from above. The less enjoyable aspect was the humid and smoke-filled air. Lima does not have any laws against smoking in bars, some restaurants, wig shops, etc. so it's been a smoky couple of weeks. I don't mind cigarette smoke that much except for the way it infiltrates your clothes. The non-smoking laws and larger size cups of coffee are several things that I definitely miss in the states.
Saturday night, before going out again, I went to Astrid y Gaston. It is supposed to be one of the best restaurants in Peru, and certainly one of the most upscale in Lima. The creator is Gaston Acurio, a celebrity chef who tries to raise the level of Peruvian cuisine and help it gain international attention. This is his flagship, and once I read that it has a 12 course tasting menu, I knew I had to go. The courses spanned all sorts of traditional Peruvian specialties (guinea pig, seafood, causa (potato puree thing), interesting root vegetables, lomo saltado, anticuchos) and the atmosphere, service, presentation, and taste was right up there with the best I've bad. Another bonus is that the cost is about 1/3 what you would expect in the US. I have also discovered that I enjoy Pisco, the national liquor of Peru. Most of you have probably had a Pisco Sour, but down here there are a whole mess of different Pisco drinks (and different types of Pisco). I'm glad the Pisco drinks are so good, because the beer...well it ain't a Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA if you catch my drift.
On Sunday I needed to procure a sweatshirt, an additional shirt for the gym, an additional shirt for work, and some sweatpants (turns out it's winter down here). I was referred to Polvos Azules, a mall of sorts in the center of Lima. The structure itself is like any mall in the US, and they sell items inside, but the similarities stop there. There are endless, categorized narrow aisles with minuscule stalls hawking their wares. I must have seen 75 stores selling shoes, 50 selling jeans, and I would venture to say 25 selling dog sweaters. It was overwhelming not only because of the volume of stores but also because you see the same products (or almost the same products) over and over and over again. I enjoy a good value, but I don't want to go to every stall, find the item I want, bargain, and then move on searching for the lowest price. I found a nice polo, an obnoxiously lime green t-shirt, a hoodie, and a pair of sweatpants and was out in 30 minutes. If you come to Lima, you can find great values for name brand stuff, but I don't plan to go back any time soon.
Tonight is shaping up to be pretty relaxed. As July rolls around more people are staying in the Casona, but fortunately Sunday is still low key. I am going to make dinner for Kike, Juan, and Jessica tonight. I love the familial feeling I get in the Casona (in addition to the immaculately clean bathrooms). For a nujack like myself, I couldn't ask for a better place to feel at home in Lima. Alright, I better wrap things up. "I Will Survive" just hit the airwaves, and I have been dying to show off the choreography I've been working on.
Friday, June 25, 2010
Hallowed Be Thy Name
I think that we have managed to establish a sufficiently vibrant group dynamic (not my words unfortunately, but let's be real, only about 3% of this blog is original material. This phrase finds its roots in the timeless call and repeat song 'Hey Li Lee Li Lee' by The Limelighters for those who are interested. And I know one person who is.) for me to create titles that have little or nothing to do with the subsequent discourse. The title also comes from a song, though instead of mid-20th century folk music, I have chosen a line from my favourite British metal band Iron Maiden. Phew! Now we're ready.
After announcing my plans to live in Peru for six months, people tossed around a lot of different words to describe me...
Brave
Noble
Courageous
Mustache
Hero
While I wholeheartedly agree with each of these descriptions there is an important one that was omitted...
Party Animal
Last night looked like it was shaping up to be another Casona party by way of Paris, but there turned out to be a decent mix of nationalities. And more importantly, people who speak English. I have no problem with speaking Spanish, but after using it all day at the office, it is relaxing to be able to revert to my native tongue. Anyhow, there were about 40 of us drinking in the bar and discussing: soccer, long tennis matches, the lion burger place in Arizona (?), and even the merits of keeping chicken eggs unrefrigerated (that's how they do it here). I enjoyed my first Peruvian Pisco Sour, and it was certainly delicious. Fresh squeezed lime juice, simple syrup, bitters, good quality Pisco, and of course an unrefrigerated egg white certainly makes for a frothy, suave concoction. We also consumed a fair amount of Cristal Pilsner and Cusqueno. Both are 5% alchohol pilsners, and nothing really to write home about. Irony alert!
Around Two Minutes to Midnight we all left the Casona to go to 'Help,' a warehouse-sized bar/music venue. Kike (Charles Eric) and Juan (Jean) wanted to see this band that was covering songs from another band they like. I immediately forgot both band names (and the bar name, in fact). A short taxi ride later we arrived outside Help, and fortunately we were already on the list because there was a huge line. I was puzzled...how could so many people be waiting for entry into this tiny door which must lead to a tiny bar? Well, after walking in the door, passing the hot dog grill on the right side of the hall, and brushing aside a curtain, the huge expanse that is Help was revealed to me. 1200 people fit inside the place, and about 1150 showed up on Thursday. The band was a lot of fun. They had a brass section (for some reason, brass sections always push all the right buttons for me) in addition to about 15 other guys on stage. Big band. The music was very upbeat with lots of jumping, hand raising, and enthusiastic lyric chanting. There were also two jester-like characters on stilts. You know, typical concert. I stayed until about 2am and then headed back with another American. Everyone else stayed until 5am but I had to get some rest for work. Before grabbing a taxi I bought one of the hot dogs I spied on the way in. They are nuclear red, and in addition to mustard, ketchup, and sour cream, they were served with the ever present 'aji,' the all purpose pepper sauce of Lima. The frank had a good snap, the aji a good kick, and the sour cream a smooth shimmy. That's really all you can ask for.
Today I will be translating a proposal for donations from Spanish to English. I find translating to be sometimes fun (when it feels like a puzzle) and sometimes tedious (when it feels like a puzzle with too many pieces. Corners first!). Fortunately, it's almost the weekend when I am sure there will be more good food, more French people, more dogs in sweaters, more smog, more napkins which are insufficient for adequate cleansing (ok, I have a beef with the napkins here. There seems to be only one variety of napkin. Envision a piece of one ply toilet paper. Increase its surface area by 100%, imprint a pebble texture onto the surface, and fold diagonally into a triangle. You receive one with most meals. Good luck with those ribs, Diego.), more near death experiences with drivers, more beautiful views of the ocean, more jam but not peanut butter (I thought it was universal), and surprises. And hopefully more material for the blog. Otherwise I'll have to Run to the Hills.
After announcing my plans to live in Peru for six months, people tossed around a lot of different words to describe me...
Brave
Noble
Courageous
Mustache
Hero
While I wholeheartedly agree with each of these descriptions there is an important one that was omitted...
Party Animal
Last night looked like it was shaping up to be another Casona party by way of Paris, but there turned out to be a decent mix of nationalities. And more importantly, people who speak English. I have no problem with speaking Spanish, but after using it all day at the office, it is relaxing to be able to revert to my native tongue. Anyhow, there were about 40 of us drinking in the bar and discussing: soccer, long tennis matches, the lion burger place in Arizona (?), and even the merits of keeping chicken eggs unrefrigerated (that's how they do it here). I enjoyed my first Peruvian Pisco Sour, and it was certainly delicious. Fresh squeezed lime juice, simple syrup, bitters, good quality Pisco, and of course an unrefrigerated egg white certainly makes for a frothy, suave concoction. We also consumed a fair amount of Cristal Pilsner and Cusqueno. Both are 5% alchohol pilsners, and nothing really to write home about. Irony alert!
Around Two Minutes to Midnight we all left the Casona to go to 'Help,' a warehouse-sized bar/music venue. Kike (Charles Eric) and Juan (Jean) wanted to see this band that was covering songs from another band they like. I immediately forgot both band names (and the bar name, in fact). A short taxi ride later we arrived outside Help, and fortunately we were already on the list because there was a huge line. I was puzzled...how could so many people be waiting for entry into this tiny door which must lead to a tiny bar? Well, after walking in the door, passing the hot dog grill on the right side of the hall, and brushing aside a curtain, the huge expanse that is Help was revealed to me. 1200 people fit inside the place, and about 1150 showed up on Thursday. The band was a lot of fun. They had a brass section (for some reason, brass sections always push all the right buttons for me) in addition to about 15 other guys on stage. Big band. The music was very upbeat with lots of jumping, hand raising, and enthusiastic lyric chanting. There were also two jester-like characters on stilts. You know, typical concert. I stayed until about 2am and then headed back with another American. Everyone else stayed until 5am but I had to get some rest for work. Before grabbing a taxi I bought one of the hot dogs I spied on the way in. They are nuclear red, and in addition to mustard, ketchup, and sour cream, they were served with the ever present 'aji,' the all purpose pepper sauce of Lima. The frank had a good snap, the aji a good kick, and the sour cream a smooth shimmy. That's really all you can ask for.
Today I will be translating a proposal for donations from Spanish to English. I find translating to be sometimes fun (when it feels like a puzzle) and sometimes tedious (when it feels like a puzzle with too many pieces. Corners first!). Fortunately, it's almost the weekend when I am sure there will be more good food, more French people, more dogs in sweaters, more smog, more napkins which are insufficient for adequate cleansing (ok, I have a beef with the napkins here. There seems to be only one variety of napkin. Envision a piece of one ply toilet paper. Increase its surface area by 100%, imprint a pebble texture onto the surface, and fold diagonally into a triangle. You receive one with most meals. Good luck with those ribs, Diego.), more near death experiences with drivers, more beautiful views of the ocean, more jam but not peanut butter (I thought it was universal), and surprises. And hopefully more material for the blog. Otherwise I'll have to Run to the Hills.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Suprises Still Life
I unfairly stated that only one person is aware of my legendary love for before-and-after phrases. In fact, there are at least two, one of whom goes by the moniker "Blake 'Brawny McTiverton' Holland." I apologize for this egregious omission, and I also apologize for using another before-and-after title which doesn't really fit the content of the entry. Now it's time for some housekeeping.
First, I created a Flickr page where one can peruse some of the photos from the trip. The service limits me to 100mb of photos before I have to pay. I will reduce the size of some of the photos, but I am going to restrict the page to highlights only. I know that MY attention span can sometimes resemble that of an Irish Setter so I'll try to keep the photos as dynamic and shiny as possible. Oooh, I see a floating piece of lint! Sorry, got off track there. You can find the link on the right hand side of the page. Let me know if you have any trouble accessing the Flickr page or if you are disappointed with the content.
Second, and this doesn't technically fit under 'housekeeping,' I just heard 'Who Let the Dogs Out?' the 2000 smash hit from the Baha Men (they hail from the Bahamas if you are curious, which I am certain no one is). I'm really surprised that the song is still getting radio play, even here in Lima, since it is less of a song than a butt of jokes. Of course, that is no reason I can't sing along and razzle dazzle the other Casona guests with my encyclopedic knowledge of pop music. And believe you me, these weary travelers were certainly razzled and dazzled.
Third, and this also definitely does not fit under 'housekeeping,' I went out to lunch with two coworkers for lunch today to a really rustic restaurant in Barranco. We walked in and I was struck by how cave-like the place was. It was dark, very long and skinny, had whitewashed adobe walls with lots of ancient pots and pans hanging, and there was a cookfire with a couple chefs tending the dishes at the very back. The long wood tables were communal and very worn, but they afforded a great view of the kitchen. Well, they afforded a great view of the kitchen because the kitchen and dining area were truly the same area. I was expecting a very basic fare but was blown away when they served (we all ordered the menu, choices were rabbit and ravioli, and I wasn't feeling like dealing with bones today) the freshest tasting spinach and ricotta ravioli I've ever had. The pasta was gossamer thin and perfectly tender, and a bright spinach flavor came through wonderfully. OK enough food critic cliches. It was served with tomato sauce and a small steak on top. Everything was very fresh, entirely homemade, and surprisingly Italian from a very traditional Peruvian restaurant (according to my coworkers). If you're in the Barranco area I suggest we grab a bit at Cafe Tostado. The lunch also came with Chicha Morada, a popular sweet purple drink in Peru. It is made from purple corn and has some spices and sugar added. Most Peruvians rave about the stuff, but I think you probably have to grow up with it to truly appreciate it. I like it about as much as I liked Robert Downey Jr. doing cameos on Ally McBeal. I mean, you start with a great product and then use it in an unexpected way to achieve unoffensive, but ultimately uninspiring results. Am I the only who thought of that comparison? I highly doubt it.
Anyhow, it's getting late, and once again the entry has been driven entirely by tangents and asides. I should probably apologize to those of you who wanted concrete information about my trip. Alas, I used up all my Tuesday apologies.
First, I created a Flickr page where one can peruse some of the photos from the trip. The service limits me to 100mb of photos before I have to pay. I will reduce the size of some of the photos, but I am going to restrict the page to highlights only. I know that MY attention span can sometimes resemble that of an Irish Setter so I'll try to keep the photos as dynamic and shiny as possible. Oooh, I see a floating piece of lint! Sorry, got off track there. You can find the link on the right hand side of the page. Let me know if you have any trouble accessing the Flickr page or if you are disappointed with the content.
Second, and this doesn't technically fit under 'housekeeping,' I just heard 'Who Let the Dogs Out?' the 2000 smash hit from the Baha Men (they hail from the Bahamas if you are curious, which I am certain no one is). I'm really surprised that the song is still getting radio play, even here in Lima, since it is less of a song than a butt of jokes. Of course, that is no reason I can't sing along and razzle dazzle the other Casona guests with my encyclopedic knowledge of pop music. And believe you me, these weary travelers were certainly razzled and dazzled.
Third, and this also definitely does not fit under 'housekeeping,' I went out to lunch with two coworkers for lunch today to a really rustic restaurant in Barranco. We walked in and I was struck by how cave-like the place was. It was dark, very long and skinny, had whitewashed adobe walls with lots of ancient pots and pans hanging, and there was a cookfire with a couple chefs tending the dishes at the very back. The long wood tables were communal and very worn, but they afforded a great view of the kitchen. Well, they afforded a great view of the kitchen because the kitchen and dining area were truly the same area. I was expecting a very basic fare but was blown away when they served (we all ordered the menu, choices were rabbit and ravioli, and I wasn't feeling like dealing with bones today) the freshest tasting spinach and ricotta ravioli I've ever had. The pasta was gossamer thin and perfectly tender, and a bright spinach flavor came through wonderfully. OK enough food critic cliches. It was served with tomato sauce and a small steak on top. Everything was very fresh, entirely homemade, and surprisingly Italian from a very traditional Peruvian restaurant (according to my coworkers). If you're in the Barranco area I suggest we grab a bit at Cafe Tostado. The lunch also came with Chicha Morada, a popular sweet purple drink in Peru. It is made from purple corn and has some spices and sugar added. Most Peruvians rave about the stuff, but I think you probably have to grow up with it to truly appreciate it. I like it about as much as I liked Robert Downey Jr. doing cameos on Ally McBeal. I mean, you start with a great product and then use it in an unexpected way to achieve unoffensive, but ultimately uninspiring results. Am I the only who thought of that comparison? I highly doubt it.
Anyhow, it's getting late, and once again the entry has been driven entirely by tangents and asides. I should probably apologize to those of you who wanted concrete information about my trip. Alas, I used up all my Tuesday apologies.
Monday, June 21, 2010
Culture Shock Value
Those who know me well are aware of my appreciation for Wheel of Fortune-esque 'before and after' phrases, hence the title of this entry. Actually, there is probably only one person who is aware of this guilty pleasure. No matter, we will move forward. I have only lived here one week but I have already begun to notice things that strike me as odd. Perhaps this dischord arises from cultural differences, perhaps I am sheltered. Regardless, I wanted to present some of the more curious sights and sounds I have encountered so far (in no particular order):
1. One of my coworkers, who recently celebrated the 27th year of her birth, is engaged. That in of itself is nothing out of the ordinary, and I gave her my sincerest congratulations on her upcoming matrimony. However, this whole situation became a bit stranger when she showed me a picture of her and her fiancée. He's a bit older, and by a bit older, I mean 35 years older. But that wasn't even the weirdest part. I can deal with a 62 year-old fiancée of a 27 year-old, but this guy was a dead ringer for a Peruvian Albert Einstein. I'm sure he is a great guy, but I would have a lot of trouble being married to the most famous theoretical physicist in history. Think of the pressure! I would be afraid of always being stuck in his shadow. Maybe she gets a kick out of living vicariously through Else Lowenthal. I don't know, I'm not trained to understand these things.
2. For lunch today, five coworkers and I went to a local favorite spot for lunch. They are known for their menu (a menu in Peru refers to a prix fixe lunch. Typically you get a soup or small appetizer, a main plate, and juice or some equivalent beverage. It is always a better deal than ordering a la carte, the downside being you have less selection), which, astoundingly, set me back just over $2. I had the chicken soup (generous, hearty, and fresh), the lentil stew with rice and some sauteed steak and onions, and a glass of pear juice (no free refills). The food was homey and satisfying, and while the price was strangely low, it was certainly not the most noteworthy element of this encounter. This 'restaurant' is run by a lady who began serving lunch in the dining room of her house. As it became more popular, she gradually began to serve more hungry patrons in more of the rooms of her house. I thought the place was quaint and cozy. It is, and that is because I was eating in this person's house. During lunch service the kids are not allowed out of their rooms (they are taking a lunch break from school) so they don't disturb the diners. I guess the 'menu de casa' really takes on a new meaning! Pun alert!
3. You can buy milk in bags.
4. I am a man who appreciates good condiments. Part of the reason I love Chicago style hot dogs is the abundance of condiments/toppings (poppy seed bun, all beef frank, pickle spear, nuclear green relish, sport peppers, tomatoes, mustard, celery salt). But for the life of me, I can't find Grey Poupon in the markets here. What is this? The Stone Age?! Just kidding, I don't know if there is Grey Poupon. There is a popular Liman sauce called Aji, and it is a delightful blend of garlic, a local pepper, and some secret Incan spices (the spices may or may not be Incan). It goes well on everything - tonight, it kicked up my turkey and Edam sandwich on wheat. There is nothing strange about this sauce. I guess I have only noticed three things our of the ordinary. Don't worry, I'll keep my eyes open and have more to report in the future.
1. One of my coworkers, who recently celebrated the 27th year of her birth, is engaged. That in of itself is nothing out of the ordinary, and I gave her my sincerest congratulations on her upcoming matrimony. However, this whole situation became a bit stranger when she showed me a picture of her and her fiancée. He's a bit older, and by a bit older, I mean 35 years older. But that wasn't even the weirdest part. I can deal with a 62 year-old fiancée of a 27 year-old, but this guy was a dead ringer for a Peruvian Albert Einstein. I'm sure he is a great guy, but I would have a lot of trouble being married to the most famous theoretical physicist in history. Think of the pressure! I would be afraid of always being stuck in his shadow. Maybe she gets a kick out of living vicariously through Else Lowenthal. I don't know, I'm not trained to understand these things.
2. For lunch today, five coworkers and I went to a local favorite spot for lunch. They are known for their menu (a menu in Peru refers to a prix fixe lunch. Typically you get a soup or small appetizer, a main plate, and juice or some equivalent beverage. It is always a better deal than ordering a la carte, the downside being you have less selection), which, astoundingly, set me back just over $2. I had the chicken soup (generous, hearty, and fresh), the lentil stew with rice and some sauteed steak and onions, and a glass of pear juice (no free refills). The food was homey and satisfying, and while the price was strangely low, it was certainly not the most noteworthy element of this encounter. This 'restaurant' is run by a lady who began serving lunch in the dining room of her house. As it became more popular, she gradually began to serve more hungry patrons in more of the rooms of her house. I thought the place was quaint and cozy. It is, and that is because I was eating in this person's house. During lunch service the kids are not allowed out of their rooms (they are taking a lunch break from school) so they don't disturb the diners. I guess the 'menu de casa' really takes on a new meaning! Pun alert!
3. You can buy milk in bags.
4. I am a man who appreciates good condiments. Part of the reason I love Chicago style hot dogs is the abundance of condiments/toppings (poppy seed bun, all beef frank, pickle spear, nuclear green relish, sport peppers, tomatoes, mustard, celery salt). But for the life of me, I can't find Grey Poupon in the markets here. What is this? The Stone Age?! Just kidding, I don't know if there is Grey Poupon. There is a popular Liman sauce called Aji, and it is a delightful blend of garlic, a local pepper, and some secret Incan spices (the spices may or may not be Incan). It goes well on everything - tonight, it kicked up my turkey and Edam sandwich on wheat. There is nothing strange about this sauce. I guess I have only noticed three things our of the ordinary. Don't worry, I'll keep my eyes open and have more to report in the future.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
La Nouvelle Maison
The search is over, I am now a resident of the Casona Roja backpackers hostel. It is a castle-like structure about 15 minutes (walking) from GEA, and location was a huge factor for me. Public transportation options are everywhere, but the bus/minibus/van drivers are insane and I'd rather not put my life in their hands on a daily basis. Around the hostel there is a supermarket, lots of restaurants, little shops, a gym, a hardware store, a yoga studio, a wig shop...basically everything I need on a regular basis. Plus, the Casona (Casona means 'mansion' in Spanish. Quick aside: the Barranco district has lots of these turn-of-the-century mansions which are now used as hostels, restaurants, apartments, etc. The original architecture of Barranco is thus preserved even as the area modernizes. There is this enormous casona that has a popular bar, but I still need to drop by that one.) is 3 blocks from the beach. Ironically, the location is remarkably similar to Hermosa/Manhattan/Redondo Beaches in LA. There is a highway almost identical to PCH here, I am close to the ocean, there are lots of young people, and I never leave the region. Just like South Bay! Just kidding!!!
The Casona has a large kitchen, a bar, several living rooms, a dining room, a lovely foyer, and incredibly clean bathrooms. I have my own room to myself, though it came with a bunk bed. Who wants to sleep over? In my room I have a desk, a chair, said bunk bed, a bookshelf, and an armoire. It's really everything I need, and the Casona is fortunately very social as well. It is owned/run by two French guys (Jean and Charles Eric) who are incredibly friendly. Also a positive aspect, they speak Spanish with a French accent, so I hopefully will pick that up as well. In the future, my French Spanish will make me irresistible to all the available ladies. They also have a ton of French friends here in Lima. There were parties on Friday and Saturday nights (good foresight putting a bar downstairs), and there must have been 40 French people here. I was thinking to myself, where am I? Le Pain Quotidien?! The other people staying here are from all over, however, so living here should be an entertaining experience. Some of the apartments I checked out seemed a little isolated, and since I'm the new kid on the block, it will be good to have folks passing through. Even if they are all French.
I also bought my Liman gym membership. They have Gold's Gym down here, but it is really expensive and not conveniently located for me. However, the Casona is one block from a very small, though complete, gym. Imagine a 24 Hour Fitness. Ok, now stop imagining the clean floors, sufficient lighting, new machines, matching weights, weights in lbs, spacious rooms, classes, bathrooms, front desk, American fitness enthusiasts, trainers, music, and drinking fountains. Are we still together? Good, you now have an image of my new gym. It's roughly the size of a Peet's Coffee (Peetstop!), and it has enough equipment to get the job done. An added bonus is that the proprietor has an AC Slater curly mullet. He also has the Zubaz parachute pants. That alone is worth the $14 monthly rate.
This past weekend I just walked around Lima a lot, saw the important buildings, visited a catacombs with 70,000 bodies (during the tour, most of the bones you could see were leg and arm bones. There were a lot of bodies, but after 15 minutes of femurs and...arm femurs?...I was not as thrilled by the corpses. Leave it to the Monastery of San Francisco to deliver a big finale. A huge pile of skulls! Yes!). There was also an enormous library which is purported to be the second most important in Latin America. I ate some ceviches, grilled/skewered beef hearts, empanadas, chaufa (Chinese food, Peruvian style), and some delightful macarons. The food is excellent and extremely nuanced, so I think I should be set for the next six months. For reference, three skewers of grilled beef hearts with a potato will set you back $3.50. An empanada with spinach and hard boiled egg runs about $1.60. A 2.5 liter bottle of sparkling water is $0.70. A ceviche big enough to share is about $6.75. A bath towel is $5.25. Sunblock is really expensive.
Happy Fathers' Day, everyone.
The Casona has a large kitchen, a bar, several living rooms, a dining room, a lovely foyer, and incredibly clean bathrooms. I have my own room to myself, though it came with a bunk bed. Who wants to sleep over? In my room I have a desk, a chair, said bunk bed, a bookshelf, and an armoire. It's really everything I need, and the Casona is fortunately very social as well. It is owned/run by two French guys (Jean and Charles Eric) who are incredibly friendly. Also a positive aspect, they speak Spanish with a French accent, so I hopefully will pick that up as well. In the future, my French Spanish will make me irresistible to all the available ladies. They also have a ton of French friends here in Lima. There were parties on Friday and Saturday nights (good foresight putting a bar downstairs), and there must have been 40 French people here. I was thinking to myself, where am I? Le Pain Quotidien?! The other people staying here are from all over, however, so living here should be an entertaining experience. Some of the apartments I checked out seemed a little isolated, and since I'm the new kid on the block, it will be good to have folks passing through. Even if they are all French.
I also bought my Liman gym membership. They have Gold's Gym down here, but it is really expensive and not conveniently located for me. However, the Casona is one block from a very small, though complete, gym. Imagine a 24 Hour Fitness. Ok, now stop imagining the clean floors, sufficient lighting, new machines, matching weights, weights in lbs, spacious rooms, classes, bathrooms, front desk, American fitness enthusiasts, trainers, music, and drinking fountains. Are we still together? Good, you now have an image of my new gym. It's roughly the size of a Peet's Coffee (Peetstop!), and it has enough equipment to get the job done. An added bonus is that the proprietor has an AC Slater curly mullet. He also has the Zubaz parachute pants. That alone is worth the $14 monthly rate.
This past weekend I just walked around Lima a lot, saw the important buildings, visited a catacombs with 70,000 bodies (during the tour, most of the bones you could see were leg and arm bones. There were a lot of bodies, but after 15 minutes of femurs and...arm femurs?...I was not as thrilled by the corpses. Leave it to the Monastery of San Francisco to deliver a big finale. A huge pile of skulls! Yes!). There was also an enormous library which is purported to be the second most important in Latin America. I ate some ceviches, grilled/skewered beef hearts, empanadas, chaufa (Chinese food, Peruvian style), and some delightful macarons. The food is excellent and extremely nuanced, so I think I should be set for the next six months. For reference, three skewers of grilled beef hearts with a potato will set you back $3.50. An empanada with spinach and hard boiled egg runs about $1.60. A 2.5 liter bottle of sparkling water is $0.70. A ceviche big enough to share is about $6.75. A bath towel is $5.25. Sunblock is really expensive.
Happy Fathers' Day, everyone.
Friday, June 18, 2010
"You can't handle the truth!!"
So I once again stayed up later than I should have, and I'm usually not a TV-watching sort of guy, but dang it (family blog) if they don't show some really good movies down here. After seeing the conclusion of the Lakers' game and Ron Artest's curious yet candid post-game interview, I checked the channel that plays the subtitled English movies a lot. Of course, I did not intend to stay up until 3 watching a movie, but what are you going to do when you see the all-star cast of Tom Cruise, Jack Nicholson, Demi More, Kevin Bacon, Kiefer Sutherland, Kevin Pollak, Cuba Gooding Jr, Christopher Guest, and Noah Wyle in arguably the greatest military courtroom drama of 1992? You get comfortable, grab some strange South American fruit, and watch it, that's what.
Despite his strange real-life activities I have always enjoyed Tom Cruise in his movies. From Ethan Hunt in the Missions Impossible (1 and 3, 2 was strange), Maverick in Top Gun, Cole Trickle in Days of Thunder, Lestat de Lioncourt in Interview with a Vampire, Jerry Maguire in his eponymous film (who doesn't like snobby word usage?), even Brian Flanagan in Cocktail, Tom Cruise has portrayed extremely likable characters. I did not even mention his comedic roles, and I know I skipped some of the other movies so as not to belabor the point, but how many bad movies/characters has Tom Cruise been associated with? Say what you want about his lifestyle and diminutive stature, I would definitely want to be friends with cinematic Tom.
Anyways, I digress from the original topic, which also digresses from the general theme of this blog. When Lt. Daniel Kaffee (Tom) cross examines Lt. Kendrick (Sutherland) about whether he gave the order for a code red....electrifying. And just when you think Kaffee doesn't have any more gas in the tank, he shreds Col. Jessep (Nicholson) by tapping into the colonel's self-righteousness and arrogance. All levity aside, if you haven't seen the back-and-forth between Cruise and Nicholson in the climactic moment in A Few Good Men, do yourself a favor and go check it out. I also appreciated that Rob Reiner never forced the issue of romance between Demi Moore and Cruise. It would have been an unnecessary distraction, and there were already enough emotional issues with the characters (Moore with her self doubt, Cruise with his fear of never filling his father's shoes, Kevin Bacon with his ridiculous basketball getup). When Lance Cpl. Dawson (yes I spent some time on IMDB to ensure accuracy) salutes Cruise at the end of the movie...well...it doesn't get any better than that.
I'll have some more pertinent material next time, including information on the new apartment and fun weekend activities.
Despite his strange real-life activities I have always enjoyed Tom Cruise in his movies. From Ethan Hunt in the Missions Impossible (1 and 3, 2 was strange), Maverick in Top Gun, Cole Trickle in Days of Thunder, Lestat de Lioncourt in Interview with a Vampire, Jerry Maguire in his eponymous film (who doesn't like snobby word usage?), even Brian Flanagan in Cocktail, Tom Cruise has portrayed extremely likable characters. I did not even mention his comedic roles, and I know I skipped some of the other movies so as not to belabor the point, but how many bad movies/characters has Tom Cruise been associated with? Say what you want about his lifestyle and diminutive stature, I would definitely want to be friends with cinematic Tom.
Anyways, I digress from the original topic, which also digresses from the general theme of this blog. When Lt. Daniel Kaffee (Tom) cross examines Lt. Kendrick (Sutherland) about whether he gave the order for a code red....electrifying. And just when you think Kaffee doesn't have any more gas in the tank, he shreds Col. Jessep (Nicholson) by tapping into the colonel's self-righteousness and arrogance. All levity aside, if you haven't seen the back-and-forth between Cruise and Nicholson in the climactic moment in A Few Good Men, do yourself a favor and go check it out. I also appreciated that Rob Reiner never forced the issue of romance between Demi Moore and Cruise. It would have been an unnecessary distraction, and there were already enough emotional issues with the characters (Moore with her self doubt, Cruise with his fear of never filling his father's shoes, Kevin Bacon with his ridiculous basketball getup). When Lance Cpl. Dawson (yes I spent some time on IMDB to ensure accuracy) salutes Cruise at the end of the movie...well...it doesn't get any better than that.
I'll have some more pertinent material next time, including information on the new apartment and fun weekend activities.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
This City Knows How to Rock
Per the sage advice of one Phil Lee, I will report on the musical tastes in Lima. While riding in taxis, 'working' at the GEA office, or putting my feet up after a long day at the rat race, I hear a lot of American music. There are radio stations that play exclusively American music, and they usually have a very intriguing playlist. It's as if you are listening to the top 40's from every single year from 1950-present all mixed up. For instance, the DJ will start things off smooth with a little Marvin Gaye getting it on, and then he will really work the crowd with a heavy dose of the Village People. Now churned into a veritable frenzy, the audience needs to take it down a notch and hears a little Chairman of the Board. The only way to follow Sinatra, of course, is with Madonna's 'Hung Up' and then the Beach Boys, then Peter Frampton, then the Beach Boys, then Aretha Franklin, then Elvis. James Brown singing 'Sex Machine?' Why not? Does Coldplay go with that? Probably. I bet the Kings of Leon would have loved to play with the Bee Gees. The good part of this musical schizophrenia (yes I looked it up) is that I know most of the songs so I can sing along much to the delight of my new Peruvian friends. If you happen to be in the area, 88.3 FM is a good place to start.
Currently playing: Godfather theme, with words.
Currently playing: Godfather theme, with words.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Back to Work
I'll try to keep my focus while I have to listen to this blowhard in the Sheraton lounge talk about his 'pimp condo in downtown Chicago. It's pretty sick man.' Anyways, sorry for the negative aside. I had my first real day working at Grupo GEA today. Do I know exactly what I will be doing yet? No, but I have a better idea. I am working with a couple other full-time employees on Buena Voz, a program that aims to help high school kids from the poorer schools around Lima achieve whatever goals they want to set for themselves. There are 7 schools participating currently, and the students meet every Saturday for 4 hours to participate in the Buena Voz activities. Today, one of the GEA workers and I visited 2 schools in Callao to deliver materials, ensure they are prepared and staffed for the Buena Voz activities, and set expectations. I did not do much of the speaking - my Spanish is improving, but working in Spanish is challenging - but fortunately I was able to understand most things. The schools were really different from what I was used to in the US. Callao is about 30 minutes north of Lima, and it has a reputation of being a rough area with lots of crime, gangs, etc. The city is strange, though, because there are lots of people meandering on the streets and very few cars. And it was eerily quiet. Just some impressions, let's go back to the schools. Both of them were surrounding by 15' high cinderblock walls and you can only gain entry by knocking on the door and speaking with the school bouncer. Once inside, I noticed two snack carts with cookies, chips and sodas, but these were operated by folks just making a living rather than by school employees. The classrooms are really dark and all the students wear uniforms even though these were public schools. However, there were computer classrooms with high speed connections. The rest of Lima has many of these interesting combinations of past and present as well. The teachers were all very nice, and very welcoming to the white guy. I hope to be able to attend some of the Buena Voz classes, but I'd like my Spanish to be a little better first. Did I mention that speaking Spanish all day long is tiring? It's pretty tiring.
The other interesting activity today was having lunch at the house of one of my coworkers, Melissa. She lives in the Surco district (right next to Barranco where GEA is located) with her family, and we ate with her dad and two aunts. I had a great time because they spoke very slowly and clearly. And the food was good! We had a Peruvian dish of boiled/sliced potatoes with Huancaina sauce (a cheesy, slightly spicy sauce), pasta bolognese, and some lemonade (served hot). During lunch the Brazil-North Korea soccer match was on. It was fun seeing two elderly aunts going nuts over Brazil scoring that first goal (it was a good shot, but they took it to another level). After lunch we went back to work, but it was late in the day so I didn't really do a whole lot. We spent some time after work looking for more apartments for me and I think I will probably be in a place in Barranco, but the initial option of a hotel at a monthly rate didn't pan out. Hopefully this will be done by Thursday but my hotel points are serving me well in the Sheraton. Ok, I know this all wasn't very organized and had a distinct lack of humor or insight, but this dude in the lounge is really bothering me. On that note, I'll end this one!
Hope everyone is doing well up north.
The other interesting activity today was having lunch at the house of one of my coworkers, Melissa. She lives in the Surco district (right next to Barranco where GEA is located) with her family, and we ate with her dad and two aunts. I had a great time because they spoke very slowly and clearly. And the food was good! We had a Peruvian dish of boiled/sliced potatoes with Huancaina sauce (a cheesy, slightly spicy sauce), pasta bolognese, and some lemonade (served hot). During lunch the Brazil-North Korea soccer match was on. It was fun seeing two elderly aunts going nuts over Brazil scoring that first goal (it was a good shot, but they took it to another level). After lunch we went back to work, but it was late in the day so I didn't really do a whole lot. We spent some time after work looking for more apartments for me and I think I will probably be in a place in Barranco, but the initial option of a hotel at a monthly rate didn't pan out. Hopefully this will be done by Thursday but my hotel points are serving me well in the Sheraton. Ok, I know this all wasn't very organized and had a distinct lack of humor or insight, but this dude in the lounge is really bothering me. On that note, I'll end this one!
Hope everyone is doing well up north.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Some Preliminary Lessons
I slept in a bit later than I would have liked, but the television here is fascinating. First, there are about 5 American movies showing at any one time. They are subtitled (rather than dubbed) and they are all your favorites from the late 80's and early 90's. Hard to pass up 'Kindergarten Cop' followed by 'Batman & Robin.' Second, a lot of the channels have infomercials for products that are almost identical to products we see in the US. The differences are really interesting though. Remember those belts that send an electrical current through your abs, supposedly stimulating muscle growth? How about multiple belts for all over your body that can be worn simultaneously? Yeah, I was as intrigued as your are. Third, there is sports coverage of all your favorites, but they also cover fun outliers like junior rugby. Bottom line: it's hard to put the remote down.
Anyhow, I met up with Melissa from Grupo GEA (pronounced 'hay-uh') who showed me a nice little one bedroom in a hotel in Barranco (the nice bohemian district which has not been overrun with tourists like Miraflores). I liked the place a lot. It was a fun location, safe, and would provide many of the amenities of hotels. For me that's a big plus because I don't have furniture. We're going to check out a few places tomorrow after work, but I'm satisfied with the first place.
After apartment investigating, Melissa had planned to meet her friends at a cultural dance show. She asked if I was busy, and of course I am entirely not busy, so I tagged along. The show was in a cultural center's courtyard, and the best way to describe it would be a cross between Cirque du Soleil and interpretive dance. I didn't really get the message (nor have I ever been able to with interpretive dance), but the music was great and I felt very hip being there. Hipness is not really my strong suit, so score one for Andrew. Afterward she introduced me to one of her friends. Observing proper American etiquette I went in for the fist pound. Unfortunately, she leaned her head in for a side kiss thing. Painfully awkward. Now I know that the proper greeting for friends, unless it's two guys, is a single kiss on the side of the face with a light hug. That's not all I learned today. Lima air pollution standards are not the greatest. Most dogs here wear sweaters. You can buy water in 7 liter jugs, and sparkling water is much more prevalent. It's very foggy here. I think that covers today's learnings.
Thanks for reading!
Anyhow, I met up with Melissa from Grupo GEA (pronounced 'hay-uh') who showed me a nice little one bedroom in a hotel in Barranco (the nice bohemian district which has not been overrun with tourists like Miraflores). I liked the place a lot. It was a fun location, safe, and would provide many of the amenities of hotels. For me that's a big plus because I don't have furniture. We're going to check out a few places tomorrow after work, but I'm satisfied with the first place.
After apartment investigating, Melissa had planned to meet her friends at a cultural dance show. She asked if I was busy, and of course I am entirely not busy, so I tagged along. The show was in a cultural center's courtyard, and the best way to describe it would be a cross between Cirque du Soleil and interpretive dance. I didn't really get the message (nor have I ever been able to with interpretive dance), but the music was great and I felt very hip being there. Hipness is not really my strong suit, so score one for Andrew. Afterward she introduced me to one of her friends. Observing proper American etiquette I went in for the fist pound. Unfortunately, she leaned her head in for a side kiss thing. Painfully awkward. Now I know that the proper greeting for friends, unless it's two guys, is a single kiss on the side of the face with a light hug. That's not all I learned today. Lima air pollution standards are not the greatest. Most dogs here wear sweaters. You can buy water in 7 liter jugs, and sparkling water is much more prevalent. It's very foggy here. I think that covers today's learnings.
Thanks for reading!
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Oh Crap, I Actually Did It
So I think I know the question that everyone has on their minds: what direction does the water flow while draining in the southern hemisphere. Don't worry, that was the first thing I checked once I got into my hotel room. Instead of leaving you all hanging I'll just drop the bomb. It's clockwise. That was very satisfying to find out.
Getting to Lima was surprisingly straightforward and hassle-free. My flight from San Francisco to Houston was on-time as was my flight was Houston to Lima. Legroom was not as ample as Southwest, but I made it work. On the Lima flight, the flight attendants repeated every English message in Spanish. That's when the reality of this situation really started to hit me - those messages were really, really fast. Crap.
Quick aside. I was not entirely clear on the process for getting a visa while in Peru. I contacted the Peruvian consulate in the US but received a very ambiguous answer leading me to believe I did not need one. Then I read an American travel website that said I just ask for one during immigration. Well, I went with the latter approach. I told the immigrations officer that I needed a visa. He asked for how long. I said "the max," and gave him a firm wink. He said "183 days," not returning my wink. I said "sure," and tried the wink again. He then writes 183 on the lower half of the immigration paper I filled out on the plane, tears it off, and hands me my official Peruvian visa. It's that easy (just don't forget sufficient winking).
Things got better when I met the driver from Grupo GEA. Pedro was friendly and happy to help me with my Spanish, and he talked a lot slower than the flight attendants. There were several moments when he found something hysterical and I just sorta smiled, but overall I think I'll be able to communicate ok. Fending for myself is another matter. Pedro decided to take the scenic route to the Lima Sheraton (thank you, consulting travel) and we saw some...colorful...neighborhoods. I don't think I will be frequenting these areas much while I'm here, but maybe it's just driving around at 11pm at night that makes it seem unsafe. The Sheraton, on the other hand, feels just like an American hotel. Well, minus the offer for a souvenir ceremonial Inca knife upon check-in. Actually, no, this feels exactly like an American hotel. I declined the knife offer but gladly accepted the breakfast coupon. That's about it for my first day in Lima. Tomorrow I am meeting a person from Grupo GEA to go look for apartments. I don't know how things work down here, but I am really hoping for a same day move in.
Thanks for reading!
Getting to Lima was surprisingly straightforward and hassle-free. My flight from San Francisco to Houston was on-time as was my flight was Houston to Lima. Legroom was not as ample as Southwest, but I made it work. On the Lima flight, the flight attendants repeated every English message in Spanish. That's when the reality of this situation really started to hit me - those messages were really, really fast. Crap.
Quick aside. I was not entirely clear on the process for getting a visa while in Peru. I contacted the Peruvian consulate in the US but received a very ambiguous answer leading me to believe I did not need one. Then I read an American travel website that said I just ask for one during immigration. Well, I went with the latter approach. I told the immigrations officer that I needed a visa. He asked for how long. I said "the max," and gave him a firm wink. He said "183 days," not returning my wink. I said "sure," and tried the wink again. He then writes 183 on the lower half of the immigration paper I filled out on the plane, tears it off, and hands me my official Peruvian visa. It's that easy (just don't forget sufficient winking).
Things got better when I met the driver from Grupo GEA. Pedro was friendly and happy to help me with my Spanish, and he talked a lot slower than the flight attendants. There were several moments when he found something hysterical and I just sorta smiled, but overall I think I'll be able to communicate ok. Fending for myself is another matter. Pedro decided to take the scenic route to the Lima Sheraton (thank you, consulting travel) and we saw some...colorful...neighborhoods. I don't think I will be frequenting these areas much while I'm here, but maybe it's just driving around at 11pm at night that makes it seem unsafe. The Sheraton, on the other hand, feels just like an American hotel. Well, minus the offer for a souvenir ceremonial Inca knife upon check-in. Actually, no, this feels exactly like an American hotel. I declined the knife offer but gladly accepted the breakfast coupon. That's about it for my first day in Lima. Tomorrow I am meeting a person from Grupo GEA to go look for apartments. I don't know how things work down here, but I am really hoping for a same day move in.
Thanks for reading!
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